Like you (or like you should be!) I am an Ontario Steelheaders member. I put in my time to volunteer for the greater good of our steelhead fishery on the Saugeen River. Whether it’s helping out with fish lifts at Denny’s Dam or pulling a fish tanker full of yearling stockers, I take great pride in helping out. So, it was natural for me to accept the task put upon me from some of the Steelheader’s brass this past spring. My good friend and fellow member Dan Gravel and I were asked to verify the presence of beaver dams on the Beatty Saugeen River. This became an adventure we wouldn’t soon forget.
For those of you that don’t know the Beatty, it is a major spawning tributary to the Saugeen proper. The Beatty is born in the wooded wetlands of Southgate, east of highway 6. This cold water stream becomes a small river over the course of its 46km stretch before entering the South Saugeen in the town of Hanover. The cold, spring fed Beatty is a fish producing “super trib”, rich with invertebrates, forest covered banks and pristine spawning gravel; it is also the major destination for adult steelhead that are transported by the Ontario Steelheaders “Steelhead Express” tankers some 60km from Denny’s Dam during the spring fish transfers. Here, in this beautiful creek, these steelhead (as well as many others who made the journey the hard way past the man-made dams) pair-up, and lay the seeds for future generations of Saugeen River steelhead. Without a doubt, the Beatty is the major contributor to wild produced steelhead throughout the entire Saugeen system.
Our adventure started in April 2011, when Rod Jones and my father were discussing the rumour of multiple beaver dams in the lower Beatty which would impede steelhead migration. This became a great concern, since ease of access to spawning water is important. These two fine men suggested they send me and Dan down river in a canoe the following week to explore these beaver dams. Not wanting to disappoint, we eagerly agreed. Although the Beatty has an extended spring closure (no fishing till the end of May), we thought it would be a great idea to bring our shotguns along and possibly harvest a turkey or two on the stretches of Conservation Lands that border the river. My father offered us his finest fiberglass canoe and a free ride to Concession 16 where he would drop us off. We neglected his choice of watercraft and brought Dan’s rugged aluminum canoe knowing full well that the journey may be rough. We met Mr. Choronzey in Hanover with canoe in tow and reached the drop off at Concession 16 at 10:30am. He informed us that the trip would only take a few hours and we would be in Hanover no later than 4pm. A quick look at Dan’s handheld GPS told us a different story and we launched the canoe and turkey gear with some doubt in our senior members’ assurance of a quick and easy trip.
The first concession of our paddle turned out to be hell. We never found a beaver dam here. However, we found eight giant log jams that required us to portage the canoe around the masses of lumber. This took considerable amounts of time, not to mention the river had more bends and winding than a coil of garter snakes in a hibernation den. We did however; see dozens of large steelhead hiding in the log jams, obviously not impeded from beaver dams down river! Concession #1 took 2.5hrs to paddle, with no turkeys to be seen or heard.
Dan and I were happy to be out of the slow oxbow section of river we experienced in the first concession of our trip. The second concession was more exciting. Some areas of faster water made for a quicker ride down river. Here we found beautiful sections of spawning water that were occupied by steelhead paired up and making aquatic nookie. We also slammed the canoe into a few logs and boulders, but we were no worse for wear. NO BEAVER DAMS again in this stretch, but we still had to portage around 3 large log jams. Concession #2 took 2hrs to paddle.Now, at 3pm we are at Grey Road 3 bridge, still 2 concessions from our destination with about 4.5hrs of good daylight ahead of us. This next stretch of the Beatty proved to be a wicked adventure. For the next 2 hours we pounded the canoe around and into sweepers and through rapids (yes RAPIDS), slammed into boulders, nearly flipped, took on water, and managed to explode our carefully packaged soft cooler of silver beverages. My shotgun was sitting in 3in of cold stream water in the bottom of the canoe and any thought of killing a turkey was gone. Finally after nearly 3 hours, we completed the 3rd concession, soaked and bruised, but still paddling. The only benefit to this stretch of the trip was being able to witness the most intense mayfly and then caddis hatch I have seen on the Saugeen. Juvenile steelhead and resident browns were lighting up the surface, filling their guts with these flies. It was like something from a western fly fishing movie, surreal to say the least.
Finally, we had one more concession to traverse before we reached the take out point. The final leg of our journey proved to be the worst few hours in a watercraft I have ever experienced, and I have seen a lot! We passed some beautiful riverside homes, whose resident’s proclaimed we were crazy idiots for canoeing the Beatty. One lady even offered to help us off the river and back to town. We neglected the offer and tried to explain we were in search of BEAVER DAMS. About half way through the final concession we met our match. Here, the river split into a section of 3 braids. Dan (in the rear) suggested we go left, I however paddled us to the right and off we went tumbling down a whitewater staircase, putting the canoe on its side and taking on water fast. Dan managed to jam his paddle down into the riverbed to prevent a total capsizing. We immediately pulled up on shore and proceeded to walk the canoe down the remaining 400yrds of whitewater, inadvertently spooking adult steelhead everywhere throughout the stretch. It was nearly dark and we had no idea how much further the pick-up destination was. We managed to paddle down river for about 5 minutes before we were greeted to fast water again and more hair pin turns. We repeated the above scenario two more times. Yes, I said two more times… ughhh! Not taking any more chances, we walked the canoe through the final bit of nastiness and found our take out point within eyesight. Mr. Choronzey was not there (of course). He had dropped the vehicle off for us at the bridge (thanks Dad!) and returned to his trailer at Denny’s Park where he was in the company of the Steelheaders’ brass who brainstormed this idiotic adventure, laughing I am sure.
We left the Beatty at 9 pm that evening. Sore, bruised, broken and bug bit. The canoe looked like a car hood from a demolition derby. It leaked, severely by the time we pulled out. Our guns, soaked. We had managed to spot more than a hundred adult steelhead, and probably floated over 100’s more. The amount of juvenile trout was astonishing, as was the mayfly hatch. We never saw or heard a turkey. And last but not least, we NEVER FOUND A SINGLE BEAVER DAM. I would like to thank those who made a point to bringing the existence of these imaginary BEAVER DAMS to attention of the Ontario Steelheaders, you owe these two members a new canoe and a beer! I do not promote the Beatty as a canoe trip for anyone. It is not listed as a paddle route and should not be used as one.
If you want to access the Beatty, do it from shore!
It takes eggs to get a hatchery program going and again, in my opinion no one club raises steelhead smolt like the Lake Huron Fishing Club at both their Kincardine and Port Elgin hatcheries, but someone has to collect those eggs and milt.
LHFC Trout Hatchery, Kincardine On.
Grant McAlpine and your crew, thank you very much! Along with assistance from the Ontario Steelheaders, more than 200,000 eggs were collected, fertilized and hatched once again this year. The babies are now feeding and putting on the muscle in both hatcheries.
It should be noted that eggs were also collected for one other club and some fingerlings were also donated to a second club that had trouble getting their own eggs this past spring.
Stripping eggs and milt may sound like fun to some, but trust me; it involves a lot of tedious work. Once again, hats off to Grant and his crew of volunteers from both clubs.
I received a phone call a few months back from the Georgian Triangle Anglers Association over on Georgian Bay to come and speak to their membership on just exactly what has made the Saugeen River an overnight sensation. They wanted to know why returning trout numbers were exploding and how we did it.
When we met I explained to them that the answers were simple. Raise quality fish to the proper size and stock them far up the river for maximum imprinting. I emphasized the fact that we were collecting quality wild eggs and milt from quality wild fish. I also explained that the Lake Huron Fishing Club was rearing quality yearling smolt to the proper size. I noted that our stocking sites were many miles upriver on the Saugeen, as matter of fact more than 50 miles from the river mouth.
I also compared our success to failures with other clubs that failed to raise fish to the proper size and simply dumped their fish near river mouths. It came as a surprise that the MNR’s Jody Schiefley had passed the same message on to the membership a few weeks before.
It did not surprise me that starting this past spring the Georgian Triangle Anglers Association have reduced the number of eggs they take from returning wild fish, and are raising their trout to yearling smolt. They have also been given approval to stock their yearlings farther up the Beaver River for better imprinting. Needless to say their rainbow trout fishery is about to improve substantially in the years down the road. Congratulations to the members of the Georgian Triangle Anglers Association.
I am sure many of you have heard the old adage ‘There’s Power in Numbers’, well this also holds true for us. It has been a year now since The Ontario Steelheaders elected its current Board of Directors. I can assure you all, that your Directors have been working hard over the past year on many projects to move this club and the fisheries in a forward direction. Your membership support has, and will continue to make this work possible.
Please keep in mind that all membership revenue is 100% directed to the Ontario Steelheaders to fulfill their goals and objectives. The revenue generated from membership fees, combined with donations, grants and bursaries from businesses, government organizations, as well as, other community group funds gives us the ability to really make a difference in this fishery. It is also in our best interest as concerned anglers, for our organization to show a wealth of supporting members on the roster. The power is in the numbers, as it demonstrates to government agencies and various organizations that we have a committed (and large) group of people who continue to renew their commitment, and support the objectives of the Ontario Steelheaders. In other words, it’s not just about money. The OS needs your support in many ways.
In the spring of this year, we had many members renew their memberships and also had the additional support of new members. There are still several memberships that are due for renewal, so please check with me to determine your renewal period. Please note that our membership dates run from May to May. As a special offer to new supporters, and in an effort to streamline renewal dates, any memberships received after September 1st 2011 will not be due for renewal until May 1, 2013. Please take advantage of this one time offer, and show your support. Join, or renew your membership with the Ontario Steelheaders and help us reach our goals!
Our membership roster is well over 145 members, but could easily top 200 if we could get everyone to renew. Please take advantage of this renewal offer, it will permit you to continue to support the organization as you have in the past, and increase our active member list tremendously!
I would also like to point out that Rob Heal owner and operator of “The Home Pool” Guiding and Fly Fishing Center, www.thehomepool.ca is offering a membership drive on our behalf. Rob is offering to include in his daily fee, the cost of a single Ontario Steelheaders membership for anyone that books with him for the months of October and November and again for April of 2012. Thanks again Rob for believing in and supporting this organization!!
I take the responsibility of Membership Director very seriously. I share the role of ensuring our members receive the information, handouts, memos, updates etc. that our directors prepare for us. You should note that the most recent membership application form provides an option for those of you who wish to opt -out of receiving mail through Canada Post and only receive email communications. I realize that for some of our members continue to depend on receiving our communications through Canada Post and this will continue. However for those of you who have selected to opt out and receive email communications only, I thank you, as this does reduce our overall operating costs. However, regardless of how you wish to receive your communications please ensure that I have received your most up to date contact information including valid E-mail addresses.
I continue to ask for any and all of your input regarding any suggestions that you may have, as this is YOUR organization and YOUR input is valued. Please send your comments to: membership@ontariosteelheaders.ca, or include them with your membership renewal.
I am looking forward to seeing all of you again at the fall derby on October 15, 2011. I would like to thank everyone for their ongoing support and I look forward to the challenges that lie ahead of us in the coming year. Please feel free to contact me with any concerns or questions regarding your membership or club communications, and I would be only too happy to assist.
The storefront Supporter Decal Program is a real hit with tackle retailers, restaurants and other businesses. These supporting businesses donate 200 dollars towards our Fisheries Enhancement Fund. In return the Ontario Steelheaders are supplying the stores and businesses with a storefront “Supporter” decal to display, as well as an advertisement spot in this newsletter. The funding generated from this project will go a long way to improve our fishery. Every member of the Ontario Steelheaders is encouraged to present the program to someone they know. Please do your part and keep the program and our fishery moving forward.
The license plate sized Supporter Decal can be seen on storefront windows across SW Ontario. “If you know of a business who would like to make a contribution, and advertise with us in this newsletter, please contact us at: webmaster@ontariosteelheaders.ca
Please thank our partners for their support !!
Hello everyone, hope you all had a great summer! We had a garage sale to benefit the Ontario Steelheaders in July. It was held in the parking area across from the grocery store in Southampton. Many thanks to those who donated items for the sale and especially to those who helped to set-up, tear-down and keep shop during the sale. We managed to raise over eight hundred dollars towards our bottom line!
We also held a few 50/50’s in the spring which also went very well. Special thanks to those who donated their winnings to the cause also…every bit counts!
We will start collecting the “Saugeen Steelheader” Rod Draw tickets starting the first week of November, so please make sure you offer them to anyone you feel may be interested before handing them in. The draw takes place at the end of November, so get your tickets soon!! Anyone wishing to view the Rod and Reel can contact Karl Redin. Thanks to everyone for selling them!
We have lots of ideas for upcoming fundraisers, and we’re always open to new ideas, if you have any suggestions or wish to donate prizes for our draws, please contact me.
Don Power
Director of Fundraisers Ontario Steelheaders
On September 8, 2011, I attended the fall general meeting of the Lake Huron Fishing Club of which I am a member. The guest speaker was Dr. Chris Bunt of Biotactic Inc. who delivered a fascinating presentation about his Biotactic fish and wildlife research services. Due to fact that I listened much of the time instead of writing information down, I am going to mainly use direct quotes from various parts of his website. These excerpts will be noted.
Biotactic Incorporated – Dr. Christopher Bunt, Founder Biotactic’s mission statement: “We strive to develop and provide holistic, realistic solutions and strategies for fish protection and conservation based on experience and cooperative understandings: Biotactic services and specialties include but are by no means limited to the following fields of scientific research, outreach, and ecological conservation in relation to conservation of fishes, their habitat, and everything that affects them worldwide:” Please see their website for further explanation. However, in the case of Denny’s Dam, I think most of the research will be directed at fish migration and passage studies, underwater fish monitoring, fish ways or fish ladders in the areas of design and operation, and remote fish passage monitoring/ research. To be more explicit, “We have seventeen years of experience monitoring fish passage and the effects of dams and weirs on fish and other wildlife. We use remote monitoring techniques such as radio telemetry, acoustic telemetry, physiological telemetry as well as overhead and advanced underwater videography to unobtrusively observe animals.” In addition to studying fish, “we design and install wildlife safety rafts that allow animals such as frogs, turtles, raccoon, squirrels, skunks, groundhogs, deer, and other small to medium-sized vertebrates to escape from drowning in steep-walled reservoirs, and leave an area of danger by their own volition.” Demands for this technology have been worldwide. The company did research monitoring and recording spawning behaviour of fish on the Great Barrier Reef in Australia. The data that was collected will help design and locate marine protected areas. Korea is currently investigating this technology for use in their country. In North America, 10 sites are currently being studied. They are referred to as BRAVO node 1- 10. The Denny’s Dam site will be called BRAVO node 11. BRAVO nodes 12-18 are currently being developed but their locations have not been announced. Please check their website for a map of the specific areas being monitored and researched. Each site is host “for a combination of streaming and archived video, fish movement and water temperature data.” On some sites, the rate of flow of the water is also noted. The closest spot to the Saugeen River is on the Beaver River at Thornbury, Ontario. At that site, the researchers are monitoring rainbow trout and salmon and are doing fish counts. It has been online since April 4, 2011. Available to anglers online (at the Thornberry fish ladder) are the total fish passing through, the number of Chinook salmon passing through, the peak time, the peak passage rate (fish per hour), the peak passage rate (salmon per hour), and the water temperature. This information is updated daily. As of September 8, 2011, three Chinook salmon passed up the Thornbury fish ladder at a peak time of 7 a.m. However, as Dr. Bunt noted, the time it takes a fish to go up the fish ladder will vary. It depends on many conditions like water flow, temperature, how long it rests in the staging area, how long it takes the fish to actually find the fish ladder, etc. The recording units that Biotactic Inc. uses are called BRAVO and are basically “underwater fish monitoring systems for fishways and open habitats.” The website states that they “are ideal for monitoring fishways and any other artificial or natural underwater habitat. These units are self-cleaning and designed for long-term, semi-permanent or permanent installation in freshwater and marine environments. Typical hardware and software configurations consist of 1-4 live underwater streaming video camera/ sensor pack systems that automatically filter, collect and transfer novel and interesting fish activity for outreach, education and research.” Video of the fish are as clear at night as in the day due to an infra-red lighting system that does not disturb the fish
The video collected by the BRAVO system is particularly useful for long-term research objectives related to inter- annual variation in fish migrations pattern, migration patterns, migration timing and habitat utilization and reproductive behaviour. The system has also been proven to be useful for monitoring and observing behaviour of benthic organisms such as mussels, crayfish, diving ducks, turtles, various spawning behaviour and a wide range of fish and aquatic mammals such as otters.” Please see the website for more information. The BRAVO camera system can actually sense the difference between fish species. It can also recognize individual fish as they swim past the camera so that they are not counted twice (or more) as the fish passes the camera. The data recorder also notes whether the fish are of small, medium or large size. The camera is a little larger both round and longer than a can of pop. So, what does that mean for those anglers who fish at Denny’s Dam or below the dam? Well, it means that from your home, wherever that is, you can check the water temperature, the daily history of the days before, and the live- feed videos from the fishway at Denny’s Dam and then decide whether to drive to Denny’s Dam to go fishing. If you are camping at the park and have access to a computer and the internet, you can check the website and then decide whether to go fishing or stay in bed. Going fishing is always the best option. I think… It takes some concentration and interpretive watching when the river water is turbid but most videos are clear from what I have seen. BRAVO node 11 (Denny’s Dam) is not up and working as yet but Dr. Bunt is hopeful that we can see what is going on in the fish ladder by the end of September. The BRAVO system that Biotactic Inc. uses was created and developed by them and it is a world-wide industry leader. The Ontario Steelheaders and all anglers should be overjoyed to have this system installed at Denny’s Dam. I am sure that it will be beneficial to our fishery.
Biotactic Inc.’s website is www.Biotactic.com . Please visit the site and see what is going on at the other BRAVO node sites too. Be sure to check out the online live-time videos of all sites
What do you know about where you are fishing on the Saugeen River?
You know there is Denny‟s Dam and that there was and old bridge nearby. You even know about Thorncrest Outfitters with all their canoes and kayaks stored beside their house. You especially know that the fishing is very good. But what else do you know about where you fish? Maybe this brief history will help you understand and appreciate the area. Bruce County was shaped by the ice ages, semitropical seas, and weathering created the Bruce Peninsula with its distinctive limestone rock formations. Bruce County Museum and Cultural Centre houses a large 9 inch tooth from a wooly mammoth found in Arran Township. The name „Saugeen‟ is a corrupted form of a Native word meaning „the entrance or mouth of the river‟. Oral history from the Saugeen and Nawash First Nations suggests their ancestors have been living in the area as early as 7500 years ago. Hunters and gatherers of the Middle Woodland culture lived in the area from about 700 B.C. to about 800 A.D. The Huron Indian nation was in the area when the first French Jesuit priests arrived. Fur traders from the Hudson‟s Bay Company then arrived and set up a trading post along the Saugeen River at what was to be the village of Saugeen (Southampton). Norman Robertson, author of The History of Bruce County, states that there was a fur trader who settled at the south side of the Saugeen River mouth in 1818. Other sources put the date around 1812 and that the trader was a Frenchman by the name of Pierre Piche. In the mid 1600‟s, the Ojibway (Chippawas) sent trading parties through the area and the Iroquois (Mohawk) often attacked them. The Ojibway and other native groups forced the Iroquois out and settled here for many generations. Paul Kane, a famous artist, who lived from 1810- 1871, visited the area in the 1840‟s and wrote “The Indian village of Saugeen contains about two hundred Objiways. It is a former battleground between the Objiways and the Mohawks. Of this, the mounds erected of the slain afford abundant evidence in the protrusion of the ones through the surface of the ground.” He also writes of the abundance of fish and deer in the area. At the Treaty of Manitotwaning in 1836, 1,500,000 acres were surrendered by the Objiway to British control to allow the influx of Canadian and European settlers. From this came The Queen‟s Bush or the Huron Tract. Queen‟s Bush was the title given to this area to distinguish it from the lands belonging to the Canada Company, the German Company and others that owned large tracts of land. The present counties of Perth, Huron and Bruce were created in 1849 from The Queen‟s Bush. The remaining land of what is Bruce County became the Indian Peninsula and was deemed to be located above a line drawn from the mouth of the Saugeen River to the mouth of the Sydenham River. This land was primarily comprised of primeval forest. Later on, there were more land treaties that incorporated the lands of the peninsula into Bruce County. At present, there are two First Nation reserves. The Saugeen First Nation is near the mouth of the Saugeen and the other, the Cape Croker First Nation, is on the east side of the Bruce peninsula. In the early 1800‟s, few explorers and settlers had visited the area. Unfortunately, records were few and the settlers‟ presence was not noted very well. They came from many areas in Upper Canada, Lower Canada and the Maritimes. Many came from across the Atlantic Ocean, from Germany, England, Scotland and Ireland, according to census records. In 1851 there were 499 families (2,837 people) located in and around Saugeen and by 1861, there were 4,665 families 27,499 people) according to the Bruce Genealogical Society – County History. However, another source (saugeenshores.ca – Saugeen Township)) states that there were only 200 people in 1851 with 130 people over the age of 20 and another 30 per cent under the age of 10. The Bruce County Museum and Cultural Center – Archives also says that there were 2,837 people in the area. I cannot explain the difference in the numbers. Before the land was officially surveyed, the first settlers arrived.
They arrived overland by walking on poor trails, by schooners on Lake Huron, and by rafts/ barges/ scows floating down the Saugeen River. The rafts were frequently heavy and unwieldy with one or two pairs of oars, and a long sweep oar at the stern. Settlers started off from Hanover or Walkerton to make the dangerous trek downriver. A selection from the Paisley Advocate many years later (April 28, 1876) states: “On one occasion, early in the morning, a commodious raft passed where this village now is (ed. Note – Paisley). On one end was a cow with her calf, on the other along with considerable baggage was a cooking stove, in which was a good fire, and while the enterprising settler was attending to the navigation of his vessel, the good wife was busy at the stove getting breakfast ready. The smoke which streamed from the elevated pipe, gave the moving raft the appearance of a rustic steamer in motion.” In 1844, the Government sent out a party to explore the Saugeen River. Travelling along the Garafraxa Road, they reached the Saugeen River. They then travelled down the river by canoe and mapped the Saugeen River and its surrounding lands. (History of Bruce County; Robertson) By 1851, the area had been surveyed and the Crown land was officially available to those who could make it here by land or water. Land cost two dollars an acre on July 30, 1852. Somewhere it was stated in my reading that a peculiarity about the survey being worked on in 1850 was a „Marine Allowance‟ along both sides of the river. A “Marine Allowance‟ was not included in any other survey. Probably, fishing was the first industry and the most important in Saugeen for many years. The first manufacturing industry in Southampton was a steam sawmill owned by Messrs. Line and Hamilton. It unfortunately burned down but was rebuilt by William Bondy in the form of a steam grist mill and distillery. According to the edition of the Paisley Advocate of April 28, 1876, there was an article about navigating the Saugeen River: “When the first steam sawmill built in this county, was to be erected in Southampton, about 25 years ago, it became a question of how large a boiler could be brought to its destination, as there was no road through the county. The boiler was conveyed to Hanover, if we remember rightly, and left by the side of the Saugeen to wait the turning up of some genius who would invent some method of taking it further. It was decided to make an ironclad of it and float it down the river. All the openings were tightly plugged, and with levers and handspikes, the huge boiler was started rolling at a very rapid rate down the steep bank into the deep river at the foot. The boiler, being very heavy, and going down with great force, it at once disappeared with a tremendous splash. The experiment was deemed a failure and the costly concern was supposed to be lost, but while the disappointed navigators looked on with blank faces where their craft had disappeared, it came slowly to the surface, raising its black shape high above the water. The boiler,which had started its way north without waiting for anyone to take command, was at once captured and a dry cedar log lashed to each side, oars were rigged and away went the strangest craft that ever navigated the Saugeen. The boiler was taken to Southampton.” Mill privileges at the Indian Rapids (the area where we fish) were owned by Messrs. Lines and Hamilton in 1852 or 1853. The rights were transferred in 1854 to Messrs. Dalton and McNabb of Toronto who started to build a mill race in 1855. They also started to build a grist mill.
During 1856, the two men sold the mill privileges and the improvements to John Denny. It has been reported that Mr. Denny was a descendent of the Denny‟s of Dumbarton, Scotland who were famous ship builders.
A map dated 1857 shows a grist mill (Denny‟s Mill) up and working at Indian Rapids. He also built 2 other mills – a saw mill by 1859 and a woolen mill by 1865. Together they produced flour, lumber, woolens and barrels. John Denny also cut a road through the forest during this time to bring his family to live on the site. To obtain power to run the mills, John Denny built a partial dam which went across about mid-stream and funneled much of the water flowing in the river enough of a distance down a mill race to get the required flow to power the mills. While this was being constructed, labourers stayed/ boarded at the hotel.
It was a matter of public record by the tax collector of 1859, that the “total real and personal property or income” of John Denny was $1354.00. Eventually, John Denny owned the estate at the top of the hill, farmland, the store, the grist mill, the woolen mill, the saw mill, two houses for the managers of the mills and the Denny‟s Bridge Hotel. Denny operated the mills before retiring to Toronto.
After John Denny left, his farm was purchased by Andrew Ruxton in 1883, and then in 1910, Mrs. Joel Eby purchased the land. Dr. Chambers held ownership briefly before being sold to William and Ida Donaldson. In 1926 the farm was eventually purchased by William Donaldson‟s son who lived there with his family for 47 years. It is reported by Jean Mills that the house was sold in 1973. It was during this time (1897) that the mill/water privileges were taken over by the Saugeen Electric Light and Power Company to produce Southampton‟s first electricity. Apparently, the idea of having electricity made people worry that it would cost too much so they voted the town council out of office but the machinery still arrived to be installed at Indian Rapids/ Denny‟s Mills.
It was in the early 1900‟s that a cement dam and race was built for producing hydroelectric power. The power produced serviced the electrical needs of Southampton, Port Elgin and Walkerton. Ontario Hydro took over as the main power supplier in the late 1920‟s. According to Gordon Kidd, who wrote an article titled „Old Powerhouse Humming in the 1920‟s”, when Ontario Hydro took over, all the machinery for the creation of electricity was taken out as Ontario Hydro‟s mandate was to eliminate all small power houses. He also states that the dam was “blasted out of existence”.
The Saugeen River Conservation Authority built the present dam in the early 1970‟s as part of controlling the water flow, controlling sea lampreys, and for a fish ladder. John Denny‟s hotel/ inn was a stop- over for stagecoaches and travellers and was sold to John Buckley about 1860. The Buckley family kept travellers‟ horses in their stables to be looked after and to rest for the next day‟s journey.
The Denny‟s Bridge hotel became known as The Bull‟s Head Hotel due to William Buckley‟s family‟s coat of arms which had Saxon origins. The coat of arms had a bull‟s head on the upper part of the crest and three bull‟s heads on the main body of the shield; thus, the Bull‟s Head Hotel name.
Of course, the Inn keepers were gregarious people and entertained their guests with music and good food. The popular inn also had a bar for those who were in the mind to partake in some libations. Rooms were heated by wood stoves and water was obtained from a spring at the bottom of the hill. Water was also piped to the stable (not far from the hotel and by the road-side) and into a watering trough for the horses.
William and his brother Richard Buckley owned and operated the hotel until 1883. After William died, Richard took over until James Johns took over ownership of the Bull‟s Head Inn in the late 1890‟s. He also “owned Denny‟s dam and water power rights, and did milling at the dam.” (John Weichel) The Bull‟s Head Hotel was used for many years as a family home by a family called the Mathesons before being purchased by Tim and Janette Thorne. The couple own and operate Thorncrest Outfitters in downtown Southampton. It continues to be private residence since the Thornes began living there in 2003. There are plans for it to become a bed and breakfast once all renovations are completed. Since it is a private residence, no tours of the house are given.
Mrs. Thorne described the house/ former hotel as having two foot thick walls. The upper portion of the house had been closed up for many years before they moved in. The upstairs of the building has 11 bedrooms and there are 27 windows in the house to let in lots of light. The back part of the house has an upper servants‟ quarters and kitchen with the lower part being the owner‟s bedroom and kitchen. Water for the house is supplied by an artesian spring/well that came out at a spot higher that the house. The house was in need of repairs when the Thornes moved in with many parts of the house being original, except for minor upgrades over the years like painting the wooden floors and wire electric wiring. During the mid-1950‟s a bathroom was installed in the house and used water from the spring. (Jean Mills) Mrs. Thorne also said that she believes that the house is definitely haunted. Visions and sounds of a cat have been seen and heard by both of the Thornes. (They do not have a cat.) Also, the sound of a foot dragging was heard in their first few years of residence but stopped after the downstairs renovations were completed. John Benner took over the mill privileges around 1880 and set up another woolen mill a little upstream from Southampton where he manufactured blankets. He had bad luck with flooding on the Saugeen River and was forced to relocate the mill to Inglis Falls in 1884. By 1888, Denny‟s Mills were owned by the Routh brothers and employed 15 people. Unfortunately in October 1888, a fire destroyed the woolen mills and everyone was put out of work. Going back to October 1865, before the Upper Canada government built a timber bridge over the Saugeen River at Denny‟s Mills or Indian Rapids (at an approximate cost of four thousand dollars including road improvements), there was a small, one-man ferry lower down on the river. According to an excerpt from one of John Weichel‟s books, Forgotten Lives: Early History of a Coastal Town, “The tariff for ferry use is as follows: Each passenger, 2 cents; Each vehicle with two horses or other animals, 6 cents; Each bag, barrel, or package with a team, 2 cents; Freight without a team, over 100 pounds, 2 cents; Freight under 100 pounds without passenger, 2 cents; freight with passenger, free; Each vehicle having paid twice in the same day to pay at half the cost.” Unfortunately, the ferryman was out of a job when the bridge was completed as were his two daughters who also ferried people across the river.
After the bridge was built, the people of Saugeen did not like having to go so far out of town to cross the river. Also, the southern part of Saugeen was growing slowly while the north side was only accessible only by boat. After Denny‟s Mills Bridge was built, businesses in Saugeen discovered that many people who crossed the bridge continued on to Port Elgin instead of stopping in Southampton. This started a movement to have another bridge built closer to the mouth of the river. The town council of Saugeen at the time decided that “the sum of five pounds be given to any person who can furnish the best and most satisfactory plan of a bridge to be built over the Saugeen River somewhere between the Steam Saw Mill and the mouth of the Saugeen River at the most suitable place, for the least possible expense.” The founder of the town of Saugeen, Captain John Spence, received the contract but due to lack of money, the project was cancelled.
The Saugeen River has been crossed by bridges ever since 1865 except for one period of three months. The bridge at Denny‟s Mills was built in 1865 but the spring flood damaged it numerous times. For example, it was washed out in 1907 and rebuilt in 1908. In 1909, an abutment was washed away so that closed the bridge. While it was being repaired in 1909, two workers repairing the bridge fell into the river and drowned.
During 1889, a second attempt to build a bridge at Victoria Street in Saugeen was started. This bridge became to be longest bridge in the county at a length of 430 feet. In 1891, the bridge was found to be unsafe and was ordered to be taken down and rebuilt. Alas, in 1909, the Victoria Street Bridge was again deemed unsafe to be used so once again an attempt to fix it was started.
During the building of the Victoria Street Bridge, a Cross of Lorraine was found and is believed to be from 1773 – 1809. These crosses were made in Montreal and distributed to the North West Company and other fur traders. Spring floods in 1912 took out both the Denny‟s Dam bridge and the Victoria Street bridge at the same time. Travellers and townspeople needed a boat to cross the river from April to June while a temporary bridge was put into place. In late 1912, Denny‟s Mills bridge was reopened to traffic.
Southampton was incorporated as a town in 1858, but remained being called “Saugeen” or “The Mouth” or “Sahgeeng” for many years. It was actually named after Southampton, Hampshire, England. At one point in its history, it vied for becoming the county seat with Walkerton.
Port Elgin was incorporated in 1874 but was originally known as Normanton. During Southampton‟s first year of incorporation reports show that there were thirty houses, three businesses and weekly mail. The Chantry Lighthouse was completed in 1859. Bruce County was named after James Bruce Earl of Elgin who was Governor General in 1849 when the Queens Bush was divided up into Perth, Huron and Bruce.
When Bruce County was finally incorporated in 1867, a Bruce County tartan was announced, registered in Edinburgh and patented in Canada. The archive section of Bruce Museum and Cultural Center says that the tartan is “Steeped in history, the red, yellow and green depict not only the Bruce clan tartan but the beautiful foliage of millions of trees that cover the area. The white and deep blues represent the glistening waves washing the 367 miles of shoreline bordering Lake Huron and Georgian Bay, as well as the many fresh water streams throughout the area.”
There have been several archaeological excavations/ digs in the area of Denny‟s Dam. Pieces of broken pottery, flint projectile points and bone fragments have been found. Even some evidence has been discovered of an ancient cemetery according to Jean Mills in an article titled “Life by the River”. During a dig in 1960, archaeologists found evidence of inhabitants for both Spring and Summer fishing encampments. This dig was formally called „The Donaldson Site‟ and further study of the artifacts in 1971 show that this site dated back to 500 B.C. Jean Mills goes on to say, “At the present time, the riverside property where the archaeological explorations took place is managed by the Ontario Steelheaders Association, allowing fishermen to camp there, for a minimal fee. The rest of the property grows weeds.” An internet site posted by the Saugeen First Nation about the well-known amphitheater states that “On the far shore of the Saugeen, the bones of warriors lie on the ancient battlefield known as “The Mound of Skulls”. The church is the site of the signing of an Indian treaty. The footpath running alongside the amphitheater was used by long-ago hunters to travel from the hilltops to the traditional river hunting grounds. Close to today‟s parking lot lays an ancient burial ground.” According to the Ontario Steelheaders – Saugeen River website, “In 1996, the Saugeen Valley Conservation Authority (ed. note. – who own the property) announced that Denny‟s Dam Park would be closed to the public. The possibility existed that the park may even be sold”.
The Ontario Steelheaders approached the Authority with an offer to lease the park. The offer was accepted with the Ontario Steelheaders at a cost of $8,000 a year with the Ontario Steelheaders paying for the lease, insurance, maintenance of the washroom facilities, garbage disposal grass cutting, and signage. Due to these costs, a modest day use fee and camping fees (daily or seasonal) are in place. Many anglers use this park for camping. The Saugeen River Conservation Authority says on its website that “Denny‟s Dam Conservation Area is located 5 km north of Southampton. The area is accessible via Denny‟s Dam road just off Highway 21, north of Southampton. This conservation area is roughly 1.5 km upstream from the mouth of the Saugeen River. The property includes approximately 1.5 km of river frontage and is well known for its fabulous fishing. Fish species include salmon and trout.This park is maintained and looked after by the Ontario Steelheaders Association. Facilities include privies, parking, and a picnic shelter. Some camping is permitted at this park and fees do apply”. For those interested in camping at this park, there is no source of water (river excluded) and there is no electricity available. Across the river is Denny‟s Dam which is owned and operated by the Ministry of Natural Resources. There is no cost to use this area daily. There is no camping allowed at this site. It is an excellent place to use as a canoe/ kayak drop or pick-up for the upper Saugeen River. Boundaries of this area are unclear from the last report I could find.
Also, near Denny‟s Dam is the original cemetery for Southampton and area. It is on top of the hill near the present day cemetery. Over the years, it has become overgrown so a memorial area was created to honour the early settlers. Here, some of the headstones have been collected from the original cemetery (1200 feet deep and 500 feet wide) and installed in a fenced in area to preserve the stones.
To the north of Denny‟s Dam and along highway 21, a small park and Saugeen River access point for fishermen, a plaque was erected to the memory of Grant Ferris, in honour of a great fisherman, conservationist, environmentalist, educator, and mentor to many fishermen. This was done by members of the Grey-Bruce Outdoors on April 16, 2008. Today, the Ontario Steelheaders and the Lake Huron Fishing Club have joined together in a joint fish stocking effort to have the Saugeen River become the premier fishing destination for salmon and rainbow trout in Ontario. This ongoing project is already showing good results as the result of the many volunteers who help with the egg harvesting, work at the two hatcheries, and those who help with the stocking.
And there you have it – some area history in a nut shell. Some dates etc. are conflicting and may be argued but are as accurate as I can find in books and in the Bruce County Museum and Cultural Centre in Southampton. Various authors often do not agree on dates, but I would be happy to share my research sources on request.
Just a quick reminder to fisherman:
Denny’s Dam night fishing closes this saturday for the month of October at 12AM October 1, 2011 and re-opens 12AM November 1, 2011.
The
MNR regulations states fishing between the dam and the south side of the old bridge abutments between the hours: one-half-hour after sunset to one-half hour before sunrise is prohibited for the month of October to allow salmon to spawn.
Please resepct these regulations as it will only better the Saugeen River system for everyone.